Help! My lash lifts keep failing. What brand is best?

A question we regularly receive at Browstar:
“I use brand X, but my lash lifts never turn out right. What brand do you recommend?”

We understand the frustration. You want that perfect curl, a beautifully lifted result that lasts for weeks. But when your results are disappointing, it is almost never the brand that is the problem. Instead of switching immediately, it is smart to first look at your technique and your knowledge of the chemistry behind a lash lift. Let us explain it step by step.

The science behind a lash lift

A lash lift is essentially a chemical process that changes the structure of the lashes so that they can take on a new shape. For this we usually use two main products:
Step 1 is the lifting lotion
Step 2 is the fixing lotion (also called setting lotion)

These products work together to change the shape of the hair and fix it. But to do that successfully, you need to know exactly what is in each product and how it works.

Step 1: Breaking the disulfide bridges

In step 1 there is always a reducing ingredient. This can be:

• ammonium thioglycolate (often in combination with ammonia)
• ethanolamine
• cysteamine
• or a combination of these substances

What do these substances do?
They break the disulfide bonds (SS) in the keratin of the hair. These bonds normally provide the natural shape and resilience of the hair. By loosening these bonds, the hair becomes temporarily shapeless and can be manipulated, so lifted up against a shield.

Important to know:
If step 1 is not left long enough or too long, the bridges can be broken incompletely or too much. In both cases, this does not produce a beautiful result. You will either get too little lift or overprocessing with dry, curly or kinked hairs as a result.

Step 2: Fixing the new shape

After applying step 1 and positioning the hairs on the shield, use step 2.
This contains hydrogen peroxide or another oxidizing agent.

Step 2 ensures that the disulfide bonds are re-formed, but now in the new, lifted shape. This fixes the result and gives the lash lift its lasting effect. The new shape that the hair takes is the shape of the shield that you use.

The same applies here:
Incorrect timing or incomplete distribution of the product leads to poor fixation. Then the lift quickly drops back or the result becomes uneven.

So, which brand is best?

Honestly? The brand is rarely the cause of a failed lash lift. At Browstar we only sell brands that are well tested, work according to the correct chemical principles and contain safe ingredients. But even the best product is useless without the right application.

Invest in your technology. Check this out:

• Are you working within the correct processing times for your client's hair structure? (i.e. are you also doing the lash check)
• Are you applying the lotions evenly and in the right place?
• Are you choosing the right size and shape shield?
  
  

Finally

The key to successful lash lifts is your knowledge of the process and your skill as a stylist. Understand how your products work and perfect your technique. Only then will you achieve consistent, beautiful results.
Buying a new brand seems easy, but it is rarely the real solution.

Do you have questions about technology, training or product usage? The Browstar team is here for you!

Top 5 brands we sell the most for lash lift

1. Zola
2. Boo Beauty Bar
3. Ruthie Belle
4. Introduction
5. Noemi